CHAPTER XXL The Travels of Ibn Batuta · Capítulo 23 de 27
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CHAPTER XXL

CHAPTER XXL

Return to the coast of Coromandel — Arrival at the palace of Ghiath Oddln — Short account of the

governors of those parts — War ivilh the Hindus — The Hindu Icing taken and slain — Fattan

Different animals kept in the same cage — Matarah — Ghiath Oddtn dies — Succeeded by his bro-

thers son, Ndsir Oddln — Fattan — Kavdam — Hinaur — Taken prisoner hythe Hindus — Kalikut

Arrival at the Maidive islands — Bengal — Sadkawan — Mountains of Kdmru — The Sheikh

Tebrlzi — Miracles ascribed to him — Jabnak — Blue River — Satarkdxudn — Barahnakar Pro-

duce— Character cf the people — Customs.

After this, we sailed with the vessel, which had waited for us, to the

Maabar districts. But when we had made half the voyage, the wind

rose upon us, and we were near drowning. We then cut down our mast,

and every moment expected death. Providence, however, was favourable

to us ; for there came boats from the infidel inhabitants of the Maabar,

which brought us to land. I then told them, that I was the messenger of

their King, and tliat he was my relation ; upon which they landed us, and

treated us very honourably. They wrote to the King on this, as I also did,

telling him what had happened. After three days came an Emir from the

Sultan, with a number of cavalry ; for me they brought a palanquin and

ten horses, to carry me. We then set out for the presence of the King,

’’Ghiath Oddin El Damgani, who at this time enjoyed the supreme power

in the Maabar districts. These parts formerly belonged to the Emperor of

Hindustan, the Sultan Mohammed. They were then seized by the Sherif,

' Jaird Oddin Hasan Shah, who held them for five years. After this he

appointed ^ Alai Oddin, one of his Emirs, as his successor; but he was

killed in a warlike excursion by an accidental arrow. After this, his

brother’s son, Kotb Oddin, came to the supreme rule ; but he was killed, in

consequence of his bad conduct. After this, one of the Emirs of the Sherif

.lalal Oddin came into power, that is, this Ghiath Oddin, who married a

daughter of Jalal Oddin ; the mother of which daughter was sister to my

wife when I was Judge in Dehli.

When I had got near his house, he sent one of his chamberlains to meet

me ; and, when I entered, he received me graciously, and gave me a seat.

He was at this time in his camp ; so he erected three tents for me opposite

. *

HINDUSTAN.

193

those of his Judge, “Sadar El Zaman. He also sent me a carpet, provisions,

and presents.

This was a very warlike prince ; and as he happened to be .in the neigh-

bourhood of an infidel, whose army amounted to one hundred and twenty

thousand men, an attempt was made to take these Maabar districts out of

the hands of the Mohammedans. This infidel prince accordingly made an

attack on the town of Kian, which belongs to the Maabar, and in which

there were six thousand soldiers, put them to the rout, and besieged it.

This was reported to the Sultan, and that the town was nearly lost. He

then marched out with his forces, which amounted to seven thousand, every

man of whom took off his turban, and hung it upon the neck of his horse,

which is, in India, an intimation that they are bent upon death. They

then made a charge upon the infidel king, while his men were taking their

mid-day repose and besieging ^Kian, and put them to the rout. The

greater part of them was killed ; nor did one, except the cavalry, or those

who concealed themselves in the woods, escape. The Sultan was taken

prisoner, his wealth seized, himself afterwards killed, and I saw his body

hanging against a wall in the town.

I then left the King’s station, until he should return from his expedi-

tion, and came to the city of ’^Fattan, which is large and beautiful, and

situated upon the sea-shore. Its harbour is truly wonderful. In this city

there are grapes and good “pomegranates. I saw in this place the ^Sheikh

Salih Mohammed of Nisabur, one of the fanatical Fakeers who suffer

their hair to flow down loosely upon their shoulders. This man had seven

foxes with him, all of which ate and sat with the Fakeers. There were

also with him thirty other Fakeers, one of whom had a gazelle with a lion

in the same place, which was unmolested by the lion. I then proceeded

for the purpose of presenting myself to the Sultan at the city of “Maturah,

which is large, and not unlike Dehli. In this I found a great mortality,

which had destroyed the greatest part of the inhabitants. The King,

Ghiath Oddin returned at this time to his palace sick, and soon after died.

He appointed his brother’s son, *^Nasir Oddin, to be his successor. In this

' c;

3 C

194

HINDUSTAN.

place, too, I caught a fever which nearly destroyed me ; but, as Providence

restored me to health, I requested permission of the King Nasir Oddln to

proceed on my journey, which was granted. I then returned to the city

of "Fattan (Pattan), and thence by sea to-^ Kawlam, one of the cities of

Malabar, where I remained three months, on account of the sickness which

had happened to me. From this place I set out to visit the Sultan ° Jamal

Oddln of Hinaur, who had received a promise from me to return. The

infidel Hindoos, however, came out against us in twelve war vessels, be-

tween (the last place mentioned and) Fakanun ; and, giving us severe

battle, at length overcame us, and took our ship. They then stripped us

of all. From me they took all the jewels and rubies given me by the King

of ^ Battala, as well as the additional presents of the pious Sheikhs, leaving

me only one pair of trowsers : and thus were we landed nearly naked. 1

then returned to '‘Kfilikut, and entered one of the mosques. When some

of the lawyers and merchants, who had known me in Dehli, heard of my

situation, they clothed and received me honourably. I then thought of

returning to the Emperor of Hindustan : but I was afraid of his severity,

and that he might ask me, why I had separated from the present. I then

went on board another ship, and this pleased me, and returned to the

^ Maidive Islands, on account of the little boy I had left there. When I

had seen him, however, I left him in kindness to his mother. The Vizier

then furnished me with provisions, and I sailed for Bengal, which is an

extensive and plentiful country. I never saw a country in which provi-

sions were so cheap. I there saw one of the religious of the west, who

told me, that he had bought provisions for himself and his family for a

whole year with eight dirhems. The first town I entered here was ”Sad-

kawan,^ which is large and situated on the sea-shore.

. ‘ '■ . •" . ^ •

* The name of this place is variously written ; in some cases we have Sutirkawan,

in others according to our MSS. In the we have and

It was, no doubt, the name of a place then in Bengal ; but whether it is still in existence or not

the geographers do not inform us. We are told, in the author just mentioned, that Mohammed

Shah made an expedition, in A.H. 741, A.D. 1340, to this place, and took Fakhr Oddin, the king

HINDUSTAN.

195

The king of Bengal was at this time " Fakhr Oddin : he was an eminent

man, kind to strangers and persons of the Sufi persuasion : but I did

not present myself to him, nor did I see him, because he was opposed to

the Emperor, and was then in open rebellion against him. From^Sad-

kiiwan I travelled for the mountains of ^ Kamru, which are at the distance

of one month from this place. These are extensive mountains, and they

join the ’'mountains of Thibet, where there are musk gazelles. The inhabi-

tants of these mountains are, like the Turks, famous for their attention to

* magic. My object in visiting these mountains was, to meet one of the

saints, namely, the Sheikh ‘Jalal Oddin of Tebriz. This Sheikh was one

of the greatest saints, and one of those singular individuals who had the

power of working great and notable miracles. He had also lived to a

remarkably great age. He told me, that he had seen “El Mostaasim the

Calif in Bagdad : and his companions told me afterwards that he died at

the age of one hundred and fifty years ; that he fasted through a space of

about forty years, never breaking his fast till he had fasted throughout ten

successive days. He had a cow, on the milk of which he usually break-

fasted ; and his practice was to sit up all night. It was by his means

that the people of these mountains became Mohammedans ; and on this

account it was, that he resided among them. One of his companions told

me, that on the day before his death he invited them all to come to him ;

he then said to them : To-morrow I depart from you, Deo volente, and my

vicegerent with you is God besides whom there is no other God. When

the evening of the following day had arrived, and he had performed the

last prostration of the evening prayer, he was taken by God. On the side

of the cave in which he had resided was found a grave ready dug, and by

it a winding sheet and burial spices. The people then washed and buried

him in them, and said their prayers over him. When I was on my jour-

mentioned by our traveller, prisoner, carried him to LaknoutI, and there put him to death.

The words are : (jbaLj

. jd ^J, • There must be a trifling error in one or

both of these dates.

2 C 2

196

HINDUSTAN.

ney to see this Sheikh, four of his companions met me at the distance of

two days, and told me, that the Sheikh had said to the Fakeers who were

with them, A western religious traveller is coming to you : go out and

meet him. It was, said they, by the order of the Sheikh that we came

to you ; notwithstanding the fact, that he had no knowledge whatever of

my circumstances, except what he had by divine revelation. I went with

them accordingly to his cell without the cave, near which there was no

building whatever. The people of this country are partly Mohammedans,

and partly infidels ; both of whom visit the Sheikh and bring valuable

presents. On these the Fakeers, and other persons who arrive here,

subsist. As for the Sheikh himself, he confines himself to the milk of his

cow, as already mentioned. When I presented myself to him, he arose

and embraced me. He then asked me of my country and travels, of which I

informed him. He then said to the Fakeers: Treat him honourably. They

accordingly carried me to the cell, and kept me as their guest for three

days. On the day I presented myself to the Sheikh he had on a reli-

gious ^garment, made of fine goat’s hair. I was astonished at it, and said

to myself, I wish the Sheikh would give it me. When I went in to bid him

farewell, he arose and went to the side of the cave, took off the goat’s

hair garment, as well as the fillet of his head and his sleeves, and put

them on me.

The Fakeers then told me, that it was not his practice to put on this

garment : and that he had put it on only on the occasion of my coming,

for he had said to them : This garment will be wished for by a Mogrebine ;

but an infidel king shall take it from him, and shall give it to our brother

^Borhan Oddln of Sagirj, whose it is, and for whose use it has been made.

When I was told this by the Fakeers, I said : As I have a blessing from

the Sheikh, and as he has clothed me with his own clothes, I will never

enter with them into the presence of any king either infidel or Moslem.

After this I left the Sheikh. It happened, however, after a considera-

ble time, that I entered the country of China, and went as far as the city

of "Khansa. Upon a certain occasion, when my companions had all left

me on account of the press of the multitude, and I had this garment on, and

. j ^

• ■>

HINDUSTAN.

197

was on the road, I met the Vizier with a large body. He happened

to cast his eyes upon me, and called me to him. He then took me by the

hand, and asked me why I had come to this country ; nor did he leave me

until we came to the King’s palace. I wished to go, but he would not

allow me to do so, but took me in to the King, who interrogated me about the

Mohammedan sovereigns; to all which I gave answers. He then cast his

eyes upon the garment, and began to praise it, and said to the Vizier :

Take it off him. To this I could offer no resistance, so he took it; but

ordered me ten dresses of honour, and a horse with its furniture, and

money for my necessities. This changed my mind. I then called to mind

the words of the Sheikh, that an infidel king should take it ; and my won-

der was increased.

After a year had elapsed, I entered the palace of the King of China at

"Khan Bfilik,^ my object was to visit the cell of the Sheikh Borhan Oddin

of Sagirj. I did so, and found him reading, and the very goat’s-hair gar-

ment I have been mentioning was on him. I was surprised at this, and

was turning the garment over in my hand, when he said. Why do you turn

the garment over, do you know it ? I said, I do ; it is the garment which

the King of Khansa took from me. He answered : This garment was made

for me by my brother Jalal Oddin, for my own use, who also wrote to me

to say that the garment would come to me by such a person. He then

produced the letter, which I read, and could not help wondering at the

exactness of the Sheikh. I then told him of the origin of the story. He

answered. My brother Jalal Oddin was superior to all this : he had a perfect

control over human nature ; j* but now he has been taken to God’s mercy.

He then said, I have been told, that he performed the morning prayer every

day in Mecca; that he went on the pilgrimage annually, because he was

never to be seen on the two days of ^ Arafat and the feast, no one knowing

whither he had gone.

When, however, I had bid farewell to the Sheikh Jalal Oddin, I travelled

to the city of "Jabnak, which is very large and beautiful ; it is divided by

* Cambalu, or Pekin, as will be shewn hereafter.

198

HINDUSTAN.

the river ’which descends from the mountains of Kamru, called the '^Blue

River. By this one may travel to Bengal and the countries of ‘'Laknouti.

Upon it are gardens, mills, and villages, which it refreshes and gladdens

like the Nile of Egypt. The inhabitants of these parts are infidels, tribu-

tary to the Mohammedans. By this river I travelled for fifteen days, pro-

ceeding from road to road, till I came to the city of-^Sutirkawan.* Here I

found a junk which was proceeding to Java (Sumatra), between which

and this place there is a distance of forty days. I proceeded, therefore,

and after a voyage of fifty days, came to the countries of the ^‘Barahnakar,f

a people who have mouths like those of dogs. This is a vile race. They

have no religion, neither that of the Hindoos nor any other. They live in

houses made of reeds upon the sea-shore. Their trees are those of the 'ba-

nana, the ^fawfel and the ^betel-nut. Their men are of the same form with

ourselves, except that their mouths are like those of dogs ; J but the women

have mouths like other folks. The men go naked, without the least cover-

ing whatever : one only among them (I saw) who had put his virilia into a

painted hollow reed, which was hung to his belly. The women cover them-

selves with the leaves of trees. One who had had much intercourse with them,

told me that they copulate like beasts, without the least concealment.

The men will have thirty or more wives ; but adultery is not committed.

Should any one, however, be convicted of this crime, his punishment is, to

be hanged till he is dead, unless he brings either a friend or slave who is

willing to be hanged for him : he may then go free. The sentence for the

woman is, that the King shall command all his servants to trample upon

* See the note at p. 194.

t Nearest in sound to this, as far as I can see, appears to be the Carnacobar of our maps ;

but then we must by rather a violent metathesis make the k and b change places, and other-

wise vary the orthography, The description, however, seems to answer sufficiently near to

suit the inhabitants of the Nicobar islands, of which this is one: if, indeed, our Barahnakdris

not the Barnagul or Barnagar of Hamilton, chap, xxxiv. ; but this seems scarcely possible.

J Among some of the inhabitants of the Eastern Archipelago, I believe, they have a custom

of making their lips project outwards, by means of a stick so fixed in their teeth as always to

keep its place. Not long ago a family thus disfigured was exhibited in London.

INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO.

199

her one after another, till she dies : she is then thrown into the sea. The

women resist the men to a degree beyond their nature. But the men, from

their baseness of character, and fear about the women, will not allow any

one of the merchants to proceed on the sea in the front of their houses.

They will merely consult and trade with them, carrying them fresh water

on the backs of elephants. When we put into their port, their King came

to us riding upon an elephant, upon which there was something like a

saddle-cloth made of skin. The King himself was dressed in goat-skin,

the hairy part of which he had turned outwards ; upon his head was a

turban of coloured silk, and in his hand a short silver spear. With him

was a number of his relations riding upon elephants, and using a language

which no one could understand, unless he had been some time among

them. We sent him the usual present : for every ship putting into any

port of India is expected to send a present to the magistrate of the place.

Now these people buy and receive as presents, she elephants, over which

they put their saddle-cloth, but do not completely ™ clothe them. But any

ship not giving them their present, they will so work upon with their magic,

that the sea will rise upon it, and it will perish ; or they will return upon

and injure it.

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