CHAPTER XXII. The Travels of Ibn Batuta · Capítulo 24 de 27
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CHAPTER XXII.

CHAPTER XXII.

Arrival at Sumatra — Fruits — Currency — City of Sumatra — Introduction to the King — Royal

bounty — Religion — Shajia sect o/" Mohammedans — Provisions for a voyage to China — Arrival at

Java — Natural productions — Camphor — Cloves — Aloes — Frankincense — Superstitious custom for

the production

in Java — Voyage in the Pacific — Arrival at the country f Taixalisi — Warlike character of

its inhabitants; and f the Women in particular — Kailuka — Reigning Queen — Apparently of

Turkish extraction — Regiment of Women.

We then left this place, and in fifteen days arrived at the island of "Java,

the place from which the "incense of Java receives its name.* This is a

* We are told in Crawfurd’s History of the Islands of the Indian Archipelago, vol. i. p. 517,

&c. that the frankincense or benzoin is produced only in Sumatra and Borneo, and (p. 316) that

200

SUMATRA.

green and blooming island. The greater part of its trees are, the cocoa, the

fawfel, and the betel-nut, cloves, the Indian aloe, the ^’shaki, the ®baran-

sakl (barki ?),^' grapes, the sweet orange, and the camphor reed. The in-

habitants traffic with pieces of tin and gold, not melted, but in the ore

(as coin). They have not many rich perfumes. More of these are to be

found in the countries of the infidels (Hindoos perhaps). Nor are there

many in the Mohammedan countries.

When we had arrived at the shores of this place we put into the port,

which is a small village, in which there are some houses, as well as maga-

zines for the merchants ; and from this the city of Sumatra'!' is at the dis-

tance of four miles. At that place resides the King. When we had got

into port the magistrate of the place wrote to the King, informing him

of my arrival, who sent one of his nobles, and the judge who attended the

presence, to meet me. With them was sent one of the King’s own saddle

horses for myself, and other horses for my companions : I mounted, there-

fore, and set out for Sumatra. The King, at that time, was® El Malik

El Zahir Jamal Oddin, one of the most eminent and generous of princes

of the sect of Shafia, and a lover of the professors of Mohammedan law.

The learned are admitted to his society, and hold free converse with him,

while he proposes questions for their discussion. He is a great hero for the

faith ; and so humble, that he walks to his prayers on the Friday. He is

too strong for his infidel neighbours; they therefore pay tribute to him.

The inhabitants of his districts are of the sect of Shafia ; and they attend

. JU^ ybUill ® ’■ . (? ^

the camphor is found only in the same places, if vve except Japan. In another part of his

work, vol. ii. p. 481, &c. w^e find that no Mohammedan prince reigned in Java so early as the

times of our traveller ; and from the mention of Sumatra in our next paragraph, it seems rea-

sonable to conclude, that the Java here mentioned must be Sumatra. A little farther on we have

some account of Mul Java (ijW J.^) which must be the Java of our maps. See also the

Histoire des Mongols, tom. i. p. 612-13, note. Mr. Marsden tells us. Hist. Sumat., p. 148,

that the camphor is produced in Sumatra only.

* These have already been described as growing in Hindustan, see p. 105, where a passage is

adduced from Mr. Crawfurd to shew that they are also produced in these islands.

f Sometimes written in our MS. Shumulrah.

f See History of the Indian Archipelago, vol. ii. pp. 304~13.

S U M A T R A.

201

him willingly on his warlike expeditions. When I came to his residence,

his Viceroy met me in an obliging manner, bringing with him dresses of

honour,* which he put upon me and upon my companions. They then

brought us victuals, with the fawfel-nut and betel-leaf. After this, I

returned to the lodgings which they had prepared for me in a garden, and

had completely furnished with couches, and every necessary utensil. Morn-

ing and evening they brought us the tamarisk and other fruits from the

Vizier. On the third day, which was the Friday, they told me that the

King was coming to the mosque, and that my first interview with him

would be there. I accordingly went thither ; and at last the Sultan came.

I saluted him ; he then took me by the hand, and asked me of the King of

India, and of my travels ; and I answered him accordingly. After prayers

fie sat and discussed religious questions with the professors of divinity,

being dressed as they were, until the evening. This is his and their usual

practice ; nor does he ever come to the mosque, except in the garb of a

^professor of divinity. When the evening is past, he enters a vestry in the

mosque, and there changes his robes for those of royalty, with an upper

garment of richly embroidered silk. He then rides to his residence.

I remained partaking of his hospitality for fifteen days, and then requested

permission to pursue my journey to China : a thing which he is not always

prepared to grant. He gave me permission, however, and fitted me out

with provisions, fruit, and money. May God reward him. He also put me

on board a junk bound for China.

I then proceeded for one and twenty days through his dominions, after

which we arrived at the city of “Mul Java,| which is the first part of the

territories of the infidels. The extent of these territories is that of two

months’ journey. In these is found almost every sort of perfume. They pro-

duce the "'aloe, the ^'kakuli, and the ^kamari, “Kakula and ''Kamara being

situated in these countries. j: But in the territories of ‘’El Malik El Zahir

f This is, no doubt, the Java of our maps.

. See notes to page 184. Mr. Crawfurd, in his History of the Indian Archipelago, vol. i. p.

519, says, speaking of the lignum aloes, “ if it be a native of the Indian islands, the countries

2 D

202

JAVA.

in Java, there is only the frankincense of Java, camphor, some cloves, and

Indian aloes. But we will now say what perfumes we ourselves witnessed,

in the territories both of the Moslems and the infidels. Of this is the ‘^ frank-

incense, the tree of which is small, and about the height of a man : its

branches are like those of the artichoke. The leaves are small and thin ;

and the incense is a gum which is formed in the branches. More of this,

however, is found in the territories of the Mohammedans than in those of

the infidels. As to the camphor, its tree is a reed, like the ^ reed of our

own countries, except only that it is thicker, and the knots are longer. The

camphor is formed within it : and when the reed is broken, both camphor

and myrrh are found within the knot, and of the same form with it.* But

the camphor will not form within the reed until some animal be sacrificed

at the root. The best camphor is exceedingly cooling, and one dram of it

will kill by bringing on suffocation. This is called with them the ^Khar-

which produce it have not yet been ascertained.” In Abu Zaid El Hasan’s Commentary on the

two Arab Travellers translated by Renaudot, this place is termed the “ country of Komar,”

from whence, it is said, they bring the wood-aloes called a/ Aomar/.— Pinkerton’s Voyages,

&c. vol. vii. p. 208.

* I have some doubts whether this is correctly translated. The passage stands thus:

J,\j lu'li • It appears to me very pro-

bable that some mistaken account of the camphor reed, or tree, as it is here called, gave rise

to Dr. Darwin’s extravagant story of the upas tree of Java. Avicenna thus describes it (p. 189):

^ I

1 \ ^

(4 camphor there are

various sorts, the ElkansurT, the Riaji, in the next place the Azad, the Aspharak, and the

Azrak. It is mixed with its wood, and is extracted by being sublimed. Some say that its tree

is large, and will shade many men. The leopard is found near it. People do not go near it

except at a certain time of the year. This is what some think. This tree grows in parts of

China.” Dr. Darwin tells us that criminals are employed to get the gum, and that they can get

it only when the wind is in certain quarters. Now, if there is a superstitious belief that men

must be sacrificed in order to produce the camphor, it is probable that criminals are selected

for that purpose : and if the tree can be frequented only at certain times of the year, on account

of the wild beasts, this may have furnished the other part of the story ; but, as the Arabs say

on occasions like this, but God knows best.

JAVA.

203

dana ; it is that, at the roots of which a man has been sacrificed. Young

elephants, however, are sometimes sacrificed instead of a man.* As to the

Indian *aloe, its tree resembles that of the oak, except only that its bark

is thin. Its leaves are like those of the oak, but it has no fruit ; nor does

the tree grow large. Its roots are long and extended, and are scented

within. The leaves and trunk, however, have no perfume within them.

Among the Moslems this tree is considered property ; but, among the

infidels, the greatest part of it is not so considered. That which is private

property is found at ^ Kakula, and is the best sort. This they sell to the

inhabitants of Java for clothing. Of the Kamari species, some is soft

enough to receive an impression like wax. With regard to the 'Atas, when

one cuts off any of its roots, and buries it in the earth for some months,

none of its strength will be lost : this is the most wonderful property of it.

As to the clove, it is a thick and high tree. It is found in greater numbers

in the countries of the infidels than of the Moslems. It is not claimed as

property, on account of its great abundance. That part of it which is taken

into different countries is the ’"idan (wood)'}' What is called the "flowers

of the clove in our countries, is that which drops from its blossom, and is

like the blossom of the orange. The fruit of the clove is the "nutmeg,

which is known by ^ the scented nut ; the bark which forms upon it is the

5 mace.;]: All that has here been related, I saw with my own eyes.

. ™ al. ^ '

* The MSS. differ in this place ; the only one which is intelligible gives it thus:

j\k^\ ^ however, describes

the tree as being very large, just as Avicenna has done. See his History of the Indian Archi-

pelago, vol. i. p. 515, iii. p. 418.

f It is said in a note in the margin of one of the MSS. LLl'l J J Jjtl Jyl

jibjS ajj a>^j

J El Basbasa, of which our word 7uace is no doubt a corruption. Mr. Crawfurd describes

the nutmeg-tree as resembling that of the clove (vol. i. p. 503), and hence, perhaps, our traveller

has been mistaken. “ Appearing through the interstices of the mace,” says Mr. Crawfurd, “ is

the nutmeg, which is loosely enclosed in a thin shell of a black glossy appearance, not difficultly

broken.” — P. 504, ib.

2 D 2

204

JAVA.

From this place we went on to the port of ' Kakula : it is a beautiful city

surrounded with a stone wall of such a breadth, that three elephants may

walk abreast upon it. The first thing I saw upon its shores was the wood

of the Indian aloe, placed upon the backs of elephants ; this they lay up

in their houses, just as we do fire-wood, except that it is cheaper among

them. The merchants will purchase a whole elephant- load of it for one

cotton dress, which is, with these people, more precious than silk.^ Ele-

phants are in very great abundance here, and are used for riding and burden.

Each man ties his elephant to his door The shopkeepers tie them to

their shops ; and in the evening they will ride out, purchase, and bring

home, any thing they may want, upon them. This is the custom of all the

people of China and ® Khota.

The King of *Mul drivaf is an infidel. I was introduced to him v/ithout

his palace ; he was then sitting on the bare ground, and his nobles were

standing before him. His troops are presented before him on foot, no one

in these parts having a horse except the King, for they ride on elephants

generally. The King, on this occasion, called me to him, and I went. He

then ordered a carpet to be spread for me to sit upon. I said to his inter-

preter, how can I«sit upon a carpet, while the Sultan sits upon the ground?

He answered : This is his custom, and he practises it for the sake of humi-

lity : but you are a guest ; and, besides, you come from a great Prince.

It is, therefore, right that you should be distinguished. I then sat, and

he asked me about the King Jamal Oddin; to which I gave suitable replies.

He then said : You are now my guest for three days ; you may then return.

I one day saw, in the assembly of this prince, a man with a knife in his

hand, which he placed upon his own neck ; he then made a long speech,

not a word of which I could understand ; he then firmly grasped the

knife, and its sharpness and the force with which he urged it were such, that

he severed his head from his body, and it fell on the ground. 4 I was wonder-

. ^ '■

According to Mr. Crawford, China at this time affords one of the best markets for cotton

in the world. — Vol. iii. p. J50, &c.

f It appears from Mr. Crawford’s work, vol. ii. p. 481, &c. that the reigning princes of Java

must have been Pagans at this time.

t A similar act is recorded by Mr. Crawford, but ascribed to a different caose, vol. i. p. 41.

“ About ten years ago,” says he, “ the son of a chief of the province of Jipang, possessed

JAVA.

205

ing much at the circumstance, when the King said to me : Does any among

you do such a thing as this ? I answered, I never saw one do so. He

smiled, and said : These our servants do so, out of their love to us. He then

ordered the body to be taken up and burnt. He next went out in proces-

sion to the burning, in front of his prime minister, the rest of his nobles, his

army, and the peasantry ; and on this occasion he made provision for the

family and relations of the deceased, whose memory is greatly honoured in

consequence of this act. One who had been present at the assembly, told

me that the speech he made was a declaration of his love to the Sultan,

and that on this account he had killed himself, just as his father had done

for the father of the present King, and his grandfather for the King’s grand-

father. I then returned ; but was sent for by the King, to be his guest for

the three days. After this I proceeded by sea; and after a voyage of four

and thirty days, came into- the ‘'“calm,” that is, the still, “sea.” It has a

red appearance, which is thought to be occasioned by the lands near it.

This sea has neither wind, wave, nor motion, notwithstanding its extent.

It is on account of the calm state of this sea, that three other vessels are

attached to each of the Chinese junks, by which these junks, together with

their own cargoes, are carried forward by oars.* * Of these there are twenty

large ones, which may be compared to the masts of ships. To each oar

thirty men are appointed, and stand in two rows. By this means they

draw the junks along, being connected by strong ropes like * cables.

This sea we passed in seven and thirty days, which we did with the greatest

with a belief of his own invulnerability, put the matter to the test, and drawing his kris, killed

himself on the spot.”

* The MSS. have here, as well as in the former description given of these vessels.

From the description here given of this sea, there can be no doubt that it received its name

from the Arabian merchants (^. e. the still sea) for the same reason that Magellan called it the

Pacific. What the island was at which our traveller touched, it is impossible to say with

certainty. I suppose, however, it might have been that of the Celebes, as the distance and

situation seems sufficiently to answer the time and description of his voyage. Of the word

Tawallsi I can make nothing, because, as this seems to have been the name of the king then

reigning, that name may have died with him. I leave it to others, however, to determine what

place this is.

206

T A W A L I S I.

ease. We then came to the country of ’'TawallsT, which is thus named

after its King, as is also his whole country. It is extensive ; and the King

will oppose the Emperor of China, He possesses a great number of junks;

and with these he will fight the Chinese, until they offer conditions of

peace. The people are all idolaters ; handsome in appearance, and re-

sembling the Turks. They are much inclined to a copper colour. They

have great bravery and strength. Their women ride on horseback, they

excel in throwing the javelin, and will fight like men in battle. We put

into one of their ports which is near ®Kailuka, one of their largest and

most beautiful cities. The magistrate of this place is a daughter of the

King “Wain Arduja.

She sent for the persons who were in the ship, and entertained them ;

and when she was informed of my being there, she also sent for me. I

went to her, and saw her upon the throne of government. Before her were

her women with papers in their hands on the affairs of state, which they

presented to her. She saluted and welcomed me in Turkish ; she then ‘

called for ink and paper in my presence, and wrote with her own hand the

^Bismilla, and shewed it to me. She then inquired about the countries

I had seen ; and of these I gave her suitable information. She said, I

wonder at the great wealth of India : but, I must conquer it for myself.

She then ordered me some dresses with money and provisions for my

journey, and treated me with great politeness.

I was told that in the army of this Queen there is a regiment of women,

who fight with her like men : that she made war upon a certain king, who

was her enemy ; and that, when her army was near being put to the rout,

she made so furious an onset upon the king with her regiment, that she

overcame him, put him to death, and routed his whole force. She then

took possession of all he had, and brought the slaughtered king’s head to

her father, who accordingly gave her the government of these parts. The

neighbouring princes have made her offers of marriage, which she has

refused to accept, except on one condition only, namely, that such person

shall overcome her in the tournament. Of this, however, they have always

been afraid, dreading the reproach of being vanquished by her.

CHINA.

207

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