Front Matter and Preface

In Morocco

By

Edith Wharton

Illustrated

[Illustration]

NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 1920

COPYRIGHT, 1919, 1920, BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

Published October, 1920

The Scribner Press

TO GENERAL LYAUTEY

RESIDENT GENERAL OF FRANCE IN MOROCCO AND TO MADAME LYAUTEY,

THANKS TO WHOSE KINDNESS THE JOURNEY I HAD SO LONG DREAMED OF SURPASSED WHAT I HAD DREAMED

Preface

I

Having begun my book with the statement that Morocco still lacks a guide-book, I should have wished to take a first step toward remedying that deficiency.

But the conditions in which I travelled, though full of unexpected and picturesque opportunities, were not suited to leisurely study of the places visited. The time was limited by the approach of the rainy season, which puts an end to motoring over the treacherous trails of the Spanish zone. In 1918, owing to the watchfulness of German submarines in the Straits and along the northwest coast of Africa, the trip by sea from Marseilles to Casablanca, ordinarily so easy, was not to be made without much discomfort and loss of time. Once on board the steamer, passengers were often kept in port (without leave to land) for six or eight days; therefore for any one bound by a time-limit, as most war-workers were, it was necessary to travel across country, and to be back at Tangier before the November rains.

This left me only one month in which to visit Morocco from the Mediterranean to the High Atlas, and from the Atlantic to Fez, and even had there been a Djinn's carpet to carry me, the multiplicity of impressions received would have made precise observation difficult.

The next best thing to a Djinn's carpet, a military motor, was at my disposal every morning; but war conditions imposed restrictions, and the wish to use the minimum of petrol often stood in the way of the second visit which alone makes it possible to carry away a definite and detailed impression.

These drawbacks were more than offset by the advantage of making my quick trip at a moment unique in the history of the country; the brief moment of transition between its virtually complete subjection to European authority, and the fast approaching hour when it is thrown open to all the banalities and promiscuities of modern travel.

Morocco is too curious, too beautiful, too rich in landscape and architecture, and above all too much of a novelty, not to attract one of the main streams of spring travel as soon as Mediterranean passenger traffic is resumed. Now that the war is over, only a few months' work on roads and railways divide it from the great torrent of "tourism"; and once that deluge is let loose, no eye will ever again see Moulay Idriss and Fez and Marrakech as I saw them.

In spite of the incessant efforts of the present French administration to preserve the old monuments of Morocco from injury, and her native arts and industries from the corruption of European bad taste, the impression of mystery and remoteness which the country now produces must inevitably vanish with the approach of the "Circular Ticket." Within a few years far more will be known of the past of Morocco, but that past will be far less visible to the traveller than it is to-day. Excavations will reveal fresh traces of Roman and Phenician occupation; the remote affinities between Copts and Berbers, between Bagdad and Fez, between Byzantine art and the architecture of the Souss, will be explored and elucidated; but, while these successive discoveries are being made, the strange survival of mediaeval life, of a life contemporary with the crusaders, with Saladin, even with the great days of the Caliphate of Bagdad, which now greets the astonished traveller, will gradually disappear, till at last even the mysterious autocthones of the Atlas will have folded their tents and silently stolen away.

II

Authoritative utterances on Morocco are not wanting for those who can read them in French; but they are to be found mainly in large and often inaccessible books, like M. Doutte's "En Tribu," the Marquis de Segonzac's remarkable explorations in the Atlas, or Foucauld's classic (but unobtainable) "Reconnaissance au Maroc"; and few, if any, have been translated into English.

M. Louis Chatelain has dealt with the Roman ruins of Volubilis and M. Tranchant de Lunel, M. Raymond Koechlin, M. Gaillard, M. Ricard, and many other French scholars, have written of Moslem architecture and art in articles published either in "France-Maroc," as introductions to catalogues of exhibitions, or in the reviews and daily papers. Pierre Loti and M. Andre Chevrillon have reflected, with the intensest visual sensibility, the romantic and ruinous Morocco of yesterday; and in the volumes of the "Conferences Marocaines," published by the French government, the experts gathered about the Resident-General have examined the industrial and agricultural Morocco of to-morrow. Lastly, one striking book sums up, with the clearness and consecutiveness of which French scholarship alone possesses the art, the chief things to be said on all these subjects, save that of art and archaeology. This is M. Augustin Bernard's volume, "Le Maroc," the one portable and compact yet full and informing book since Leo Africanus described the bazaars of Fez. But M. Augustin Bernard deals only with the ethnology, the social, religious and political history, and the physical properties, of the country; and this, though "a large order," leaves out the visual and picturesque side, except in so far as the book touches on the always picturesque life of the people.

For the use, therefore, of the happy wanderers who may be planning a Moroccan journey, I have added to the record of my personal impressions a slight sketch of the history and art of the country. In extenuation of the attempt I must add that the chief merit of this sketch will be its absence of originality. Its facts will be chiefly drawn from the pages of M. Augustin Bernard, M. H. Saladin, and M. Gaston Migeon, and the rich sources of the "Conferences Marocaines" and the articles of "France-Maroc." It will also be deeply indebted to information given on the spot by the brilliant specialists of the French administration, to the Marquis de Segonzac, with whom I had the good luck to travel from Rabat to Marrakech and back; to M. Alfred de Tarde, editor of "France-Maroc"; to M. Tranchant de Lunel, director of the French School of Fine Arts in Morocco; to M. Goulven, the historian of Portuguese Mazagan; to M. Louis Chatelain, and to the many other cultivated and cordial French officials, military and civilian, who, at each stage of my journey, did their amiable best to answer my questions and open my eyes.

Note

In the writing of proper names and of other Arab words the French spelling has been followed.

In the case of proper names, and names of cities and districts, this seems justified by the fact that they occur in a French colony, where French usage naturally prevails; and to spell Oudjda in the French way, and koubba, for instance, in the English form of kubba, would cause needless confusion as to their respective pronunciation. It seems therefore simpler, in a book written for the ordinary traveller, to conform altogether to French usage.

Table Of Contents

Page

PREFACE vii

I. Rabat And Sale 1

Ii. Volubilis, Moulay Idriss And Meknez 35

Iii. Fez 75

Iv. Marrakech 121

V. Harems And Ceremonies 159

Vi. General Lyautey'S Work In Morocco 207

Vii. A Sketch Of Moroccan History 229

Viii. Note On Moroccan Architecture 259

Ix. Books Consulted 279

Index 283

Illustrations

FEZ ELBALI FROM THE RAMPARTS Frontispiece

Facing Page

General View From The Kasbah Of The Oudayas--Rabat 16

Interior Court Of The Medersa Of The Oudayas--Rabat 20

Entrance Of The Medersa--Sale 24

Market-Place Outside The Town--Sale 26

Chella-Ruins Of Mosque--Sale 30

THE WESTERN PORTICO OF THE BASILICA OF ANTONIUS PIUS--VOLUBILIS 46

Moulay Idriss 48

The Market-Place--Moulay Idriss 50

MARKET-PLACE ON THE DAY OF THE RITUAL DANCE OF THE HAMADCHAS--MOULAY IDRISS 52

THE MARKET-PLACE. PROCESSION OF THE CONFRATERNITY OF THE HAMADCHAS--MOULAY IDRISS 56

Gate: "Bab-Mansour"--Meknez 58

The Ruins Of The Palace Of Moulay-Ismael--Meknez 66

Fez Eldjid 84

A Reed-Roofed Street--Fez 88

The Nedjarine Fountain--Fez 94

THE BAZAARS. A VIEW OF THE SOUK EL ATTARINE AND THE QUAISARYA--FEZ 108

THE "LITTLE GARDEN" IN BACKGROUND, PALACE OF THE BAHIA--MARRAKECH 128

The Great Court, Palace Of The Bahia--Marrakech 130

APARTMENT OF THE GRAND VIZIER'S FAVORITE, PALACE OF THE BAHIA--MARRAKECH 132

A Fondak--Marrakech 144

MAUSOLEUM OF THE SAADIAN SULTANS SHOWING THE TOMBS--MARRAKECH 156

The Sultan Of Morocco Under The Green Umbrella 168

A Clan Of Mountaineers And Their Caid 170

The Sultan Entering Marrakech In State 176

Women Watching A Procession From A Roof 194

A Street Fountain--Marrakech 262

Gate Of The Kasbah Of The Oudayas--Rabat 266

Medersa Bouanyana--Fez 268

The Praying-Chapel In The Medersa El Attarine--Fez 270

Interior Court Of The Medersa--Sale 274

The Gate Of The Portuguese--Marrakech 276

Map

The Part Of Morocco Visited By Mrs. Wharton 8